4×4 & RV Upgrades to Consider

Upgrades to consider for a 4×4, a tow vehicle or an RV. Start with the ones that keep you from getting stranded or hurt far from help, then add comfort. Every upgrade adds weight, so check your payload and weight ratings first, and have electrical, brake and suspension work done by a qualified installer.

The Big 7: Electrical Upgrades

Fridges, lights, compressors, winches and radios all draw on a charging system built for a stock vehicle. These seven upgrades, roughly in order, let it keep up. Start by load-testing your starting battery, and replace it if it's weak.

The "Big 3" wiring upgrade. Heavier-gauge cables on the three main charging paths: alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to the chassis, and engine block to the chassis. Less voltage drop means the alternator can actually recharge the battery while a winch or fridge is running. Fuse the new positive cable close to the battery.
A dual battery system. A second battery runs your accessories, so a fridge or camp lights can never flatten the battery you need to start the engine. Charge it with a DC-to-DC charger, which most modern "smart" alternators need, rather than a simple isolator.
A lithium (LiFePO4) auxiliary or house battery. Far more usable capacity at about half the weight of lead-acid. It needs a lithium-compatible charger, and most can't be charged below freezing, so choose one with low-temperature protection or a built-in heater.
Solar with an MPPT controller. Roof or portable panels keep batteries topped up while you're parked, without idling the engine or running a generator.
A battery monitor with a shunt. Shows your real state of charge and the amps going in and out, instead of guessing from voltage. You'll know how many nights you have left.
An auxiliary fuse block and switch panel. One fused, labelled place to power lights, the fridge, the compressor and radios, instead of tapping into factory wiring. Size the wire and fuse to each load.
A pure-sine inverter, and shore-power protection. Runs 120-volt devices from your batteries; fuse it properly and use a transfer switch if it ties into RV wiring. When plugged in at a campground, a surge protector or electrical management system guards against bad pedestals.

Recovery & Self-Rescue (4×4)

Rated recovery points front and rear, bolted to the frame. Never recover from a tie-down loop or a ball hitch.
A winch rated for about 1.5 times your loaded vehicle's weight, with synthetic rope, a damper and a tree saver.
Traction boards for sand, mud and snow.
An onboard air compressor and tire deflators, so you can air down for traction and back up before the highway.
A full-size spare that matches your tires, and a mount that can carry it.
All-terrain or mud-terrain tires with the right load rating for your weight.
Skid plates and rock sliders to protect the oil pan, fuel tank, transfer case and rocker panels.
Suspension and lift, kept sensible. A lift raises the centre of gravity and changes handling and braking; get an alignment afterwards and keep the vehicle within its ratings.
A snorkel for dusty trails and the occasional water crossing. It doesn't make deep water safe.

Towing & Handling (RVs and Trailers)

A weight-distribution hitch with sway control, set up for your trailer's tongue weight.
A proportional electronic brake controller, so the trailer brakes match how hard you brake.
A tire-pressure monitoring system for both the tow vehicle and the trailer.
Better trailer tires: a higher load range, replaced by date code, not by tread.
Towing mirrors and a backup or blind-spot camera.
An auxiliary transmission cooler if you tow heavy or climb long grades.
Air bags or helper springs level a sagging load. They don't raise your weight ratings.
Regular brake and wheel-bearing service on the trailer, or an upgrade to disc brakes on heavy rigs.

Safety & Communications

Working CO, propane and smoke alarms in any RV or camper, tested every trip.
Mounted ABC fire extinguishers in the cab and the living space, where you can reach them.
Communications that don't need cell towers: a satellite communicator, or a GMRS or amateur radio.
Cargo restraint. Strap down heavy gear, coolers and tool boxes; in a crash or rollover, anything loose becomes a projectile.
Work and scene lights for camp and roadside repairs. Auxiliary driving lights must follow local road laws.
A first aid kit mounted where everyone can find it.

Winterization & Cold-Weather Upgrades

Winter driving, any vehicle

Winter tires with the three-peak mountain snowflake symbol, and chains or traction devices where mountain-pass rules require them.
A block heater, battery blanket or oil-pan heater for cold starts.
A battery check before the cold arrives; AGM batteries hold up better in the cold.
Winter wiper blades and washer fluid rated to –40°.
Diesels: winter-blend fuel or an anti-gel additive, and a fuel heater in severe cold.
A winter survival kit: shovel, traction aids or sand, ice scraper, blankets or a sleeping bag, warm layers, food, water and a power bank.
Keep the fuel tank above half so you can run the heater if you're stuck. Keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow.

Camping in the cold (RVs)

Tank heating pads or enclosed, heated holding tanks, and a heated drinking-water hose.
Skirting around the base to keep wind from under the floor.
Insulation for windows, roof vents and doors.
A serviced furnace and spare propane. Never heat with the stove or oven, and use only space heaters rated for indoor use with a low-oxygen shut-off.
Battery protection: lithium batteries with low-temperature cut-off or heaters.
Ventilation and moisture control. Condensation builds fast in cold weather; crack a vent and wipe it down.

Storing an RV for winter

Drain the fresh tank and water heater, bypass the water heater, then blow out the lines and add RV antifreeze (non-toxic, usually pink) to the lines and drain traps. Never use automotive antifreeze.
Dump and flush the holding tanks.
Turn the propane off at the tanks and prop the fridge doors open.
Disconnect the batteries or keep them on a maintainer; store lithium batteries the way their maker recommends.
Check the roof and seals, and use a breathable RV cover.
Rodent-proof it: seal gaps and remove all food.
Cover the tires from the sun, set the pressure, and keep them off bare ground.
Add fuel stabilizer, and run the generator under load once a month.

Before You Buy

Check your payload and gross vehicle weight rating; every upgrade adds weight.
Check your warranty and tell your insurer about major modifications such as a lift.
Follow local laws on lighting, lift height and tire size.
Learn to use what you install, at home, before you need it on the trail.